It's almost the end of week 1 and my "plan to make a plan" has been going pretty well so far.
So you get an idea of the general climbing schedule: Sunday climbing (leading/sport), Monday climbing (leading/sport), Tuesday reset day, Wednesday bouldering (different type of climbing), Thursday climbing, and so on.
Planning Mechanism
I have the luxury of walking home from work each day, which is generally about a 20 - 25 minute walk, depending on home fast my feet carry me. I have been using that time to try and plan out my climbing for the evening. This usually consists of picking the 4 or 5 hard routes that I want to work on while playing in the gym.
The first night I had to make some minor tweaks to the planning mechanism as I found that I could not always get on the route I wanted to climb, even if we spent two hours in the gym. So now I adjusted to incorporate in the planning process adding one or two alternative routes so that I could move on to something else quickly in the event of a repeat of day one hiccups.
On the 10 minute ride to the gym I try to remember the routes that I have picked, what the holds are like, where I had trouble last time I tried it and if I came up with an idea on how to make that portion easier.
Plan Execution
3 real days of working with this method and finished one very pesky route that I had been trying over the previous weeks but bailing out on because I was tired or didn't like the moves in it. Also, felt like I made some minor progress on a couple of the other routes that I have started working on. Overall pretty happy with the first couple days of putting the action in my action plan.
Todays main course:
An 5.11D that is all about body position. Has a bunch of interesting angles and very static movement. Fell 2 moves from the finish last time, soo close!
5.11C right next door to the 5.11D it's got some rather burly moves in the beginning and then shifts into delicate, balance moves.
5.11C Its rather over hung, has really uncomfortable clips, one of which you have to climb about a foot above to get to a spot to clip from. tiring to work out some better methods for how to get around this, but no luck yet.
5.11D Big first move, one foot one hand start, difficult third clip where I almost always fall and then little crimpy holds the rest of the way.
Plan Amendments
Found that 20 minutes of reflection time was too long even after the first try. I have amended to 5 minutes and try to do it on the car ride home from the gym. I like this because it wraps the activity up in a nice little package totally about 3 hours almost everyday. On top of which writing to you gives me another opportunity to reflect on the climbs and any accomplishments or progress I have made.
So far I am liking it. :)
Also prepping for a weekend long break as we go fishin' instead!! Here's to catching some yummy scaly guys!
So you get an idea of the general climbing schedule: Sunday climbing (leading/sport), Monday climbing (leading/sport), Tuesday reset day, Wednesday bouldering (different type of climbing), Thursday climbing, and so on.
Planning Mechanism
I have the luxury of walking home from work each day, which is generally about a 20 - 25 minute walk, depending on home fast my feet carry me. I have been using that time to try and plan out my climbing for the evening. This usually consists of picking the 4 or 5 hard routes that I want to work on while playing in the gym.
The first night I had to make some minor tweaks to the planning mechanism as I found that I could not always get on the route I wanted to climb, even if we spent two hours in the gym. So now I adjusted to incorporate in the planning process adding one or two alternative routes so that I could move on to something else quickly in the event of a repeat of day one hiccups.
On the 10 minute ride to the gym I try to remember the routes that I have picked, what the holds are like, where I had trouble last time I tried it and if I came up with an idea on how to make that portion easier.
Plan Execution
3 real days of working with this method and finished one very pesky route that I had been trying over the previous weeks but bailing out on because I was tired or didn't like the moves in it. Also, felt like I made some minor progress on a couple of the other routes that I have started working on. Overall pretty happy with the first couple days of putting the action in my action plan.
Todays main course:
An 5.11D that is all about body position. Has a bunch of interesting angles and very static movement. Fell 2 moves from the finish last time, soo close!
5.11C right next door to the 5.11D it's got some rather burly moves in the beginning and then shifts into delicate, balance moves.
5.11C Its rather over hung, has really uncomfortable clips, one of which you have to climb about a foot above to get to a spot to clip from. tiring to work out some better methods for how to get around this, but no luck yet.
5.11D Big first move, one foot one hand start, difficult third clip where I almost always fall and then little crimpy holds the rest of the way.
Plan Amendments
Found that 20 minutes of reflection time was too long even after the first try. I have amended to 5 minutes and try to do it on the car ride home from the gym. I like this because it wraps the activity up in a nice little package totally about 3 hours almost everyday. On top of which writing to you gives me another opportunity to reflect on the climbs and any accomplishments or progress I have made.
So far I am liking it. :)
Also prepping for a weekend long break as we go fishin' instead!! Here's to catching some yummy scaly guys!
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